| Queensland Crayfish Farmers Assoc. | |
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Getting Started: The way not to make a success of being a redclaw farmer is to dig a couple of ponds, throw in some redclaw and sit on the verandah dreaming of the money rolling in. You must realise that it is a primary industry and like any other, is subject to its ups and downs, being dependent on climatic conditions, external influences and the vagaries of the animal itself. The Degree of a success enjoyed by any redclaw farm is proportional to the amount of effort and diligence exercised by the farmer. It doesn't take a lot of money to operate a redclaw farm, but it does take a lot of capital expense to build one. Don't forget you have to live for two years without income before production is at a supportive level. We recommend a minimum of 5 and preferably 10 hectares of pond area as a viable family business sized farm. Farms of much larger size would be required for anyone wishing to be a force in the industry. Following the trend of our web page, we have called upon the expertise of various members and of the Queensland Department of Primary Industries to contribute to this section. |
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Pond Design and Construction: Site selection: |
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Water Supply: Soil/Subsoil: |
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Other factors to be considered: Farm Design and Layout: |
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The proposed farm should then be separated
into 5 portions, these being: The previous list contains all essential components of an efficiently run farm and should all be treated with equal importance, they should be arranged and positioned around each other to facilitate ease and efficiency of operation. This plan can be broken down into stages of construction. |
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Pond Design: Pond shape - It is generally agreed that rectangular ponds are preferred as opposed to square shaped ponds e.g. 50 X 20 or 100 X 20, long narrow ponds are much easier to feed and this shape allows the pond to be sloped more effectively into a confined collection or harvest area. Gently sloping sides allows a prefered environment for crayfish culture. This design allows shallow areas for feeding and moulting and deeper areas preferred on hot sunny days (preferred thermocline). Pond depth - Pond depth varies as the long sides slope towards the pond centre line and the short tend to be - one, the deep end and the other the shallow end. Maximum pond depth need be no more than 2.0m and a depth of 1.0m is the desired depth at the shallow end. |
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Drainage - Bottom draining ponds have a distinct advantage over non draining ponds in both management and harvesting options available. A harvest sump made of concrete and besser block should be positioned in the deepest part of the pond, in which a pipe (150mm) is set, which in turn is connected into a common (to all ponds) drainage pipe which carries the discharge water to the drainage sump. The size of this common drainage pipe is determined by the total area of ponds connected, as the pipe must accommodate pond overflow during major rainfall events that the location of the farm may experience. Acceptable allowable drain down time is also a factor worth considering, as the larger the pipe the quicker the pond shall drain and vice versa. |
| Bank width/height (above
water) - Bank width between ponds needs
to be sufficient to allow access of harvest, feeding and maintenance equipment.
A main access bank between pond rows (short side) should be of no less
than four metres with the bank between ponds (long side) 3 metres. The
height of bank above water or free board should be no less than 200mm,
with a height of more than 400mm considered unnecessary, around 300mm
is ideal provided an adequate overflow system exists. |
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Construction: |
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Cut and fill quantities need to be determined as it is that which decides the final height of the ponds above natural ground level. If a drainage sump is to be excavated this borrowed material must be factored into our cut quantities. This is essential information as it determines the depth into the natural ground at which the pond drainage is to be set. This plumbing can be installed after the ponds are completed however I believe it to be easier prior to pond construction commencing. Having established cut and fill quantities and the profile of the ponds we can then peg our site. First thing to do is drive in a peg at a set height to use as a datum point, a point that never alters and can be continually referred to during the construction phase. This datum point is used to determine top of bank heights, pond bottom depth and the relationship of these to the preset drainage. To peg the ponds simply place marker pegs outside the perimeter of the site marking all bank centres creating imaginary lines on which to form the pond banks. Material usage and bank construction method is important for the ablility of the ponds to successfully hold water. Along pond bank centers all topsoil should be stripped exposing the non permeable clay based material into which the banks are to be keyed. The banks are to be constructed using the excavated clay in the centre or core of the bank, with the stripped topsoil used as the outside layers which shall promote grass growth and stability once established. All material used to construct the banks should be run out in layers no greater than 200mm loose and highly compacted. Remember, this is just one opinion and as in everything, there are many. |
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